Folly Beach: A Place to Breathe

When it comes to travel, I have had the privilege of staying in some pretty elegant places. I have stayed in enough of them to know that I don’t want to stay in them when I am on vacation. I do not want to be cooped up in a gilded cage for days on end with a tiny refrigerator full of overpriced drinks. I want a full kitchen with a big refrigerator into which I can put whatever I like. And I want to eat whatever I like whenever I like, and I don’t want to have to put on something decent to do it.

My husband, Chuck, and I are at the age where we like to be comfortable. Entrepreneurship is hard at any age, but betting everything in middle age on a media company doesn’t leave a lot of mental energy to be image conscious. So when we go away on holiday, we are looking for a place that gives us breathing room. We have discovered that place in Folly Beach, South Carolina.

Folly Beach at dawn. Photograph by Stacy Reece

Located about 12 miles south of Charleston, this barrier island is nestled on the Eastern Seaboard between Kiawah, James, and Morris islands. In fact, Folly looks like it should be a part of the much larger James Island, but they are really separated by a large marsh and a thin waterway.

Image Courtesy of Google Maps

When you cross from James Island over to Folly, a sign welcomes you to “The Edge of America.” And it kind of feels that way. In a very short span of time, you will go from the glamorous and historic streets of Charleston to the less glamorous but necessary suburban sprawl of James Island, to the sandy and weatherworn roads of little Folly Island. So small it’s impossible to get lost.

Here’s a tip about Folly lingo. Folly Island is the entire barrier island including the two nature preserves; Folly Beach is the incorporated city and beach community on that island. Charlestonians will say “Folly Beach” or even “Folly” when they mean the whole island.

We found the people on Folly to be friendly but not excessively so. It was like everyone there was trying to breathe too. They were there to relax and recharge; not make new friends.

Folly has eccentric, weatherworn cabins with scrubby yards sitting next to multimillion dollar homes, and it feels like that was exactly how God intended it to be. There doesn’t appear to be any HOA chair bothering anyone one about lawn care or old boats in the yard. It feels like absolutely no one is paying attention to you, and that feeling is wonderful.

Folly Beach Homes - Photograph by Stacy Reece

Folly Beach Home and Stairs - Photograph by Stacy Reece

Folly Beach Street - Photograph by Stacy Reece 

Rock structures line the beach. They are neither “sea walls” or “jetties.” They are groins, built to prevent erosion.

A Groin Along the Folly Beach Waterline - Photo by Stacy Reece

The Southern gardener in me couldn’t help but notice some charming little flowers. The nature preserves on both ends of the island offer access to driftwood architecture, marshes and lots of wildlife.

Beach Evening Primrose on Folly Beach - Photograph by Stacy Reece

Beach Morning Glory on Folly Beach - Photograph by Stacy Reece

Spotted Bee Balm on Folly Beach - Photograph by Stacy Reece

Spurred Butterfly Pea on Folly Beach - Photograph by Stacy Reece

Blanket Flower on Folly Beach - Photograph by Stacy Reece

Sea Oats on Folly Beach - Photograph by Stacy Reece

Be sure to check out the graffiti along the road to Lighthouse Inlet Heritage Preserve. Cost is $1 per person on the honor system.

Graffiti Covered Fence at the Lighthouse Inlet Heritage Preserve - Photo by Stacy Reece

Graffiti Covered Path at the Lighthouse Inlet Heritage Preserve - Photo by Stacy Reece

Graffiti Covered Tree at the Lighthouse Inlet Heritage Preserve - Photo by Stacy Reece

Graffiti Covered Rocks at the Lighthouse Inlet Heritage Preserve - Photo by Stacy Reece

Driftwood at the Lighthouse Inlet Heritage Preserve - Photo by Stacy Reece

Driftwood and March Grasses at Lighthouse Inlet Heritage Preserve - Photo by Stacy Reece

The Morris Island Lighthouse at the Lighthouse Inlet Heritage Preserve - Photo by Stacy Reece

If you decide to visit Folly Beach, here are some places that we liked.

Photo Courtesy of Bert's Market

Bert’s Market is the only grocery store on the island and is a national treasure. Their motto is "We may doze, but we never close." Bert's stays open 24/7. With 22K followers on Instagram, clearly many visitors tune into the store's profile when they need a microdose of Folly. They have good croissants, deli, and local ice cream. Everything in there is expensive but convenient. To stock up on your vacation groceries, there is a Harris Teeter on James Island that is about 3 miles away. Use your Kroger card for discounts.

Photo Courtesy of https://follybeach.com/

Go fishing on the Edwin S. Taylor Folly Beach Fishing Pier. It is 25 feet wide, 1049 feet long, and is 22 feet above sea level. It has stations for measuring, washing and cleaning your catches. Parking there is about $15.

Koko’s on the Pier has good food and great service.  Try to be there at sunset.

Photo Courtesy of Lowlife Bar

Lowlife Bar has great burgers with a renovated garage vibe. Indoor and outdoor seating. Pet friendly.

Photo Courtesy of Loggerheads

Loggerheads has great seafood, lots of sports on televisions, and good accommodations for families. Indoor and outdoor seating. Avoid if you hate the Philadelphia Eagles.

 

 

Ocean Waves at Folly Beach - Photograph by Stacy Reece

And there you have it. Our week at Folly Beach left us blistered, sandy and completely rejuvenated. Just what the doctor ordered.